Home energy audits should be performed annually. The job itself can be done in an hour or two; the actual “fixes” might take a little longer but will be well worth the effort. More comfortable indoor living and lower utility bills are the payoff for completing the home energy audit check list.

The tools you’ll need for an energy audit are simple: a flashlight, a pocket knife, a step ladder, and a tape measure. Oh, yes…. You’ll need a note pad and a pencil or pen to record what is found.

Step No. 1 -- WINDOWS AND DOORS

Let’s start with the outside of the home by looking at exterior window frames and the condition of the windows themselves. When installed, windows are weather-sealed around the edges. This sealing keeps wind from infiltrating from the outside and air from leaking out. Over time, the seal will break down due to temperature expansion and contraction.

Check for gaps that might have formed or become evident between the window opening and frame. Even the tiniest crack can affect the heating/cooling integrity of the house. These gaps are where you will reseal with caulk. Caulking is one the easiest and most cost-effective energy efficiency measures. Check the condition of the old caulk bead. If it is peeling or chipping away, consider removing the old caulk and applying a new seal. Also, check window pane glaze. Older wooden windows have panes held in place by a sealing material. With age, the material dries and deforms, coming loose from the wood and glass. If this is the case, note this needed repair.

Check the condition of your storm windows. Older models of storm windows have rubber gaskets that need to be monitored for deterioration. Make sure the storm windows lower all the way and that the frames are not bent or bowed.

If you don’t have storm windows, consider sealing with sheet plastic. This is an economical alternative that really works to prevent or reduce air infiltration.

Doors should undergo the same inspection as windows. Look for gaps or cracks around the opening and frame. Use caulk to reseal. Check the condition of the door sweep at the bottom. It should form a barrier to air when the door is closed but not prevent the door from being opening. Consider the installation of a storm door if you don’t already have one. Interior seals, where the door edge meets the frame, are also important.

Important Tip – Storm windows and doors can pay for themselves in energy savings!

Step No. 2 – ATTIC, FLOOR, AND DOWN UNDER

This part of the energy audit is going to require climbing steps and crawling around in the attic, so be careful! The first thing to check is attic insulation. Many people believe their residences have adequate insulation. However, blown insulation can settle after application, and sometimes applicators miss spots between rafters. Insulation is a form of “heat flow” resistance, blocking the transfer of heat from below the attic in living spaces to the cooler air under the roof. It is important for blown (loose fill) or batt-type (rolled) insulation to cover completely between rafters and at the corners of walls; but don’t block soffit vents with insulation.

Remember the attic. Because it is ventilated to the outside air, the attic is a huge potential heat loss area without adequate insulation and sealing. The “R-value” of insulation is important because it indicates the amount of thermal resistance the material will provide, if properly applied. R-19 is a minimum.

Be aware that potential for heat transfer in attics exists from several sources. Holes cut in ceilings or walls for plumbing/wiring chases should be sealed. Chimneys or flu openings should be flashed and sealed. Bathroom or kitchen exhaust fans should be vented through the roof, not left to exhaust into the attic.

Under-the-floor insulation, usually the rolled variety held by wire hangers, works the same way as attic insulation by blocking thermal transfer and covering possible air leaks. This type of insulation can sag, however, exposing the tops of floor joists and the floor sheathing. Check the insulation and make sure it has not pulled loose. Also, check to make sure the insulation is not compressed more than one inch. This will affect the material’s insulating value. Wire hangers should be spaced 12-18 inches apart. A vapor barrier is vital. This heavy plastic layer will reduce moisture under the house. Unless you have a basement, it is vital to insulate exposed pipes under the home.

Step No. 3 – DUCTWORK AND VENTS

Studies have shown that leaky ductwork is one of the major causes of energy waste. Your heat pump or electric furnace can be rated for high efficiency, but if the heated or cooled air is leaking to the outside atmosphere, your energy dollars are going up in smoke.

Older HVAC systems are subject to leakage due to age, wear, and tear. Screws can work loose; wire hangers can rust and break; the weight of the ducting can gradually pull connecting joints loose.

Professional energy auditors place great emphasis on the pressure integrity of structures. Ductwork leakage can make the tightest, best-insulated homes energy wasters. If you haven’t checked the condition of the ducting and vents as part of your self-inspection, you might be missing the most critical cost-saving factor.

If you have a basement, checking the ductwork won’t be difficult. If your home has a crawlspace, you will have a harder, dirtier job… but it still needs to be done. Some HVAC systems have attic ductwork. Don’t forget to check what’s overhead, too.

Pay particular attention to air intakes and air return points. Make sure vents are not blocked or closed. If your HVAC system was designed for peak efficiency, it was intended to work with all the vents open so air can circulate and pressures can be maintained. Closing vents might not be saving any money; in fact, it could be costing energy dollars.

Step No. 4 – HEAT PUMP AND FURNACE MAINTENANCE

You can’t drive a car 10 years without changing the oil and performing other types of maintenance. Likewise, heat pumps and central air conditioner/furnace units aren’t engineered or built to be maintenance free over their useful lifetime. You must take the time to change or clean the filter monthly. This might be the single most important energy-saving chore that anyone – man, woman, or child – can perform. It is also necessary to obtain the services of an HVAC professional, from time-to-time, to pull a regimen of preventative maintenance on your unit.

In fact, HVAC units should be PM’d annually. This work should consist of cleaning, oiling the motor and moving parts, testing valves and switches, and checking the coolant charge. Remember: Avoid over-pressurizing heat pump units. MORE IS NOT BETTER. The amount of coolant charge should be exactly the manufacturer’s recommendation, not more or less. Less could cost energy dollars; too much will damage your compressor and lead to costly repairs. Ask your serviceman or contractor what charge is correct for your unit and make certain this is maintained.

Step No. 5 – THE LITTLE THINGS ARE IMPORTANT

Don’t neglect seemingly insignificant things during a home energy audit. For example:

The dripping water faucet in your kitchen is costing energy dollars if the faulty shutoff valve is on the hot water side.

The old refrigerator you keep plugged up in the garage – with nothing in it except Aunt Sally’s fruit cake from last Christmas and a half liter bottle of flat soda – adds to the monthly electric bill. Can you unplug the ‘fridge until it’s needed?

A computer left on when nobody is using it means wasted kilowatt hours. Even in “sleep mode,” the monitor uses energy.

How about the motor home or camper you’ve parked in the driveway? Nothing is on… you think. But it’s plugged to an outlet in the garage, and it has a power inverter. Yep, it’s consuming power.

Think about all the ways electricity is used by persons in your household. What is your family’s “energy behavior?” Can the behavior be changed to conserve electricity and save money?

Finally, call us at Buckeye Rural Electric Cooperative if you have questions about energy use, home energy audits, or problems you can’t find or resolve. Our staff of “Energy Experts” can assist. Our services are free of charge to BREC members, including on-site inspections to troubleshoot excessive bills or consumer problems.